Aero: Alyssa Davis – Costa Rica 2013 – City Life
Aero: Alyssa Davis – Costa Rica 2013 – City Life
City life in Alajuela is quite vibrant during the day, with little more than a few bars and restaurants remaining open past 7pm. While the sun is out, so go the Ticos. Walking is feasible most anywhere in the city and though there is plenty of public transportation available, you are guaranteed to find droves of jovial people strolling along on any given day. The city parks are constantly full of lively folks, talking enthusiastically with their friends, children, or significant others. If you really want a taste for the culture I would recommend going to a soccer game at the stadium in Alajuela. It would seem as though every single person in the city shows up to root for the home team. On our last Sunday in town we were lucky enough to find seats on the north side of the stadium, just to the left of the most raucous bunch of Ticos I have ever seen. They didn’t stop stomping, cheering, or beating their drums the entire game. It was exhilarating! Even after the game, the streets were filled with throngs of energetic Ticos, shouting triumphs into the atmosphere. The city was charged with a kind of passion even greater than what could be witnessed after the Super Bowl or on the fourth of July. Even I was moved to the point of shouting “LIGA, LIGA!” and running down the street sporting a freshly bartered banner that read “100% Alajuelanese.”
Just like any other city, Alajuela has its positive attributes as well as its negative ones. If you stay in Alajuela for any length of time you are guaranteed to see stray dogs. I was warned of this, and instructed not to pet, feed, or give them too much attention, but the warning couldn’t curb my sympathy. They are everywhere. I was told quite frequently by a few locals that the streets of Alajuela can be dangerous at night and to take caution when crossing any street or traveling alone. While I encountered no real danger during my visit, it is true that at least driving in the city is very different and perhaps a bit more careless than we’re used to in the US. Pedestrians do NOT have the right of way. You would do well to remember that. It is imperative that caution is taken when crossing the street.
In my short two week stay, I noticed that traffic laws are treated more like rough guidelines rather than necessary safety precautions. I was informed that just a few years ago the first safety belt law was implemented and the following year a child safety seat requirement was enacted. Motorcycles commonly weave in and out of traffic, paying little attention to stop lights or lack of space between moving vehicles. I witnessed many intersections where people could be spotted standing between lanes of traffic trying to sell fruits or vegetables to the cars in line. Because the rainy season is so intense in Costa Rica, roads and sidewalks are often washed out and very difficult to maintain. The gutters in the city streets are about a foot or more deep because of this, so not only is watching out for traffic necessary, but watching where you step is crucial. Surprisingly, I witnessed no fender benders, side-swipes, nor head-on collisions. I saw absolutely no pedestrians hurt by fault of a car, and not a single person even twisted their high-heeled ankle on those random holes in the sidewalk.
Ironically, Costa Rica is known as the country of peace – La Pais de Paz – because of its lack of an official military since the late 1940’s. With no formal military and a generally overworked police force, most Ticos prefer to reinforce their own security. In Alajuela as well as most other surrounding cities, it is extremely common to see some type of metallic gate or other barrier between the street and the front door. Some houses even have several gates, and most have barbed wire around the top of the outer-most barrier. I was given two keys for my house, one for the padlock on the gate in front of the door, and one for the deadbolt on the door. Once inside, my host mother would lock the gate, deadbolt the door, and chain it shut. I always thought it a little excessive, but the fact of the matter is that Ticos know how to take care of their own.
Safety aside, the night life in Alajuela is largely scant with most businesses closing relatively early. However, that’s not to say that the night life is so devoid in the entire country. Ticos are a jovial bunch. Most love to dance, eat heartily, and laugh even harder. I can’t imagine the entire country closes businesses as early as Alajuela does. As far as businesses go, I met several female entrepreneurs, which is almost unheard of there. Females generally play the matriarch role, ruling the household while the patriarch finds the money to support the family. Also, it’s not entirely uncommon to see young kids working in stores and selling merchandise on the streets to help their family make a living.
Despite our differences, the city life in Costa Rica isn’t too drastically different from any other city in America. The greatest variations I noticed were the number of recreational areas, ice cream shops, and the use of gates and barbed wire instead of electronic security systems for the home. Even though we’re thousands of miles apart, there’s something to be said about our similarities. On Sundays, like many Americans, the entire family gets together and spends quality time eating, drinking, and enjoying the outdoors. Public transportation is cheap, reliable, and safe. Even in the midst of varied wealth and crowded streets, I get a feeling that it’s something about the sunshine that plants a permanent smile across your face.
– Alyssa Davis
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